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How to Crochet Mosaic Overlay In the Round

How to crochet mosaic overlay and read charts

Today I am going to show you how to crochet Mosaic Overlay in the round, plus how to read Mosaic Overlay chart.

After following through with this tutorial, you will be able to confidently crochet any Mosaic Overlay project in the round.

For this tutorial, I will show you how to crochet a small swatch like the one in the picture below following a chart.

If you want to receive this tutorial as a FREE downloadable PDF, go HERE

How to crochet mosaic overlay and read charts.

If you have never crocheted using Mosaic Overlay technique, here’s what you need to know:

  1. For mosaic crochet you need to know only the most basic crochet stitches – single crochet (sc), double crochet (dc), chain(ch) and slip stitch (sl st).

2. The patterns are created using only sc and dc stitches. Sl st and ch are used for starting the project, connecting the rounds and finishing the project.

3. Sc is always worked ONLY through the back loop of the stitch.

single crochet in the back look for Mosaic Overlay

4. Dc is always worked ONLY through the front loop of the stitch one row below. It is also worked only into the stitch of the same colour, e.g. dc in colour A will always be worked into the stitch of colour A below.

Double crochet in the front loop one row below for Mosaic Overlay

If you want to receive this tutorial as a FREE downloadable PDF, go HERE

Mosaic overlay double crochet
  • Mosaic crochet projects are typically worked using two colours, marked as A or B.
  • Each round is worked with 1 colour only. IMPORTANT. We do not change colours in the middle of the round.
  • When we crochet in the round, we do not cut the yarn.

Mosaic Overlay Chart

Your mosaic overlay project chart tells you everything you need to know in order to crochet a picture.

Swatch chart for mosaic overlay

Start reading the chart at the bottom right corner.

A, B – the colour for the round. In my swatch tutorial, colour A is light grey and colour B is purple.

Numbers on the right hand side – round numbers. Number 0 is the foundation chain.

Numbers on the top – stitch numbers. Each box of the chart corresponds to one stitch.

Boxes with symbol \  on the right means ch, and on the left means sl st. In other words, we will finish each round with a sl st and ch 1. These stitches are not part of the picture, they are seam stitches.

Boxes with no symbol in them (either white or pink) – single crochet (sc).

Boxes with X (either white or pink) – double crochet (dc).

Foundational chain stitch calculations:

As you can see in the chart, one picture panel is 6 sts wide. The second half of the chart is the exact repeat of the first (I normally include it so as to have an idea of how the pattern will look like).

You need to decide how many times you will repeat this picture panel for your project.

In the case of my swatch, I will repeat the picture panel 6 times.

Which means I have to ch multiples of 6 x 6 times + 1chain for turning (6×6+1 =37).

So the swatch pattern will start:

R0(A) (foundations ch round colour A) ch 37

NOTE. When you work on bigger projects, a longer chain will twist a lot at this stage. Therefore, don’t connect the two ends at this stage, because it is easier to connect the ends after you’ve done the next row.

R1 (A) 36 sc

At this stage we will connect the ends and change the colour.

If you want to receive this tutorial as a FREE downloadable PDF, go HERE

How to connect the rounds and change the colour?

When you arrive at the end of your round.

Insert your hook into the ch where you started the round.

Using the next colour yarn (not the one you’ve just worked with), sl st and ch 1.

How to connect the rounds and change the colour.

Do NOT cut the yarn. Simply leave the yarn you are not working with hanging at the seam, you will pick it up in the next round.

Make sure your sl st and ch are as tight as possible. You will not have to work into that sl st when you next come around. Working into the tight ch will be a bit difficult, but that’s ok because a tight ch will make your seam tidy and going straight up.

Keep your seam tidy and going straight up.


As you work through this swatch pattern, you will see that I start each round with a sl st and ch. This is because we connect the round using the next colour coming up, so it is not logical to mark sl st and ch at the end of a round, but rather at the start of the next colour round.

If you want to receive this tutorial as a FREE downloadable PDF, go HERE


Looking at the chart, from bottom right to left, let’s continue:

We’ve done R0 and R1 above.

I will now divide the chart round by round and write the pattern underneath for each round.

R2 (B) sl st, ch 1, 36 sc (through the back loop only, as per explanation above)

R3 (A) sl st, ch 1, 36 sc (NOTE although the colour seems to change on the chart, as mentioned above, we will NOT change the colour in the middle of the round, continue sc through the back loop only with colour A as you have started).

R4 (B) sl st, ch 1, [3sc, 3 dc] x 6 times ( dc stitch is marked with X in the chart. Please see above how to do dc in overlay mosaic. This is your overlay stitch which will ‘colour in’ the picture).

NOTE. At this stage you know everything there is to know about reading overlay mosaic crochet chart as well as crocheting Mosaic in the round. Let’s continue with reading the chart and crocheting each round.

R5 (A) sl st, ch 1, [3 dc, 3sc] x 6 times

R6 (B) sl st, ch 1, [4 sc, 1dc,1sc] x 6 times

R7 (A) sl st, ch 1, [4 dc, 1sc, 1dc] x 6times

R8 (B) sl st, ch 1, 36 sc,

R9 (A) sl st, ch 1, 36 sc

R10 (B) sl st, ch 1, [3dc, 3sc] x 6 times

R11 (A) sl st, ch 1, [3sc, 3dc] x 6 times

R12 (B) sl st, ch 1, [1sc, 1dc, 4sc] x 6 times

R13 (A) sl st, ch 1, [1dc, 1sc, 4dc] x 6 times

I finished the swatch with a round of sc through BOTH loops, sl st, tie off and cut.

Congratulations! You now know how to crochet Overlay Mosaic technique in the round!

If you turn your swatch inside out, you will see that the back of it is striped.

The back of Mosaic overlay project is striped.

You can now crochet any Overlay Mosaic technique pattern.

For example, you can confidently crochet this Baltic Flowers Cowl.

Baltic Flowers Cowl

It will make a beautiful accessory for your outfits or a unique gift for anyone who appreciates handmade items.

Get it on:

Get it on Etsy now

Get it on Ravelry

Get it on this Website

Create beauty one stitch at a time!

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Difference Between Bobble, Cluster, Popcorn and Puff Stitches

bobble cluster popcorn puff stitches

Bobble, cluster, popcorn and puff crochet stitches – are they the same or are they different crochet stitches?

There seems to be a bit of confusion around this selection of four very popular crochet stitches.

In short, the answer is:

No, they are not the same. Bobble, cluster, popcorn and puff crochet stitches are four different stitches.

Here’s a short video where I highlight the differences between bobble, cluster, popcorn and puff crochet stitches, showing you how each of them is worked and how they are marked in crochet charts and patterns.

I really hope this video will clear up some questions you may have about these four textured stitches.

I think it is important to be able to identify which stitch is which just by looking at it, because in charts and patterns I notice inaccuracies, where a stitch can be called are popcorn stitch, while in fact, the picture of a finished item is clearly crocheted using a bobble stitch.

If you need more practice, below I have uploaded four videos where I show you how to crochet each stitch separately.

Bobble Stitch

Cluster Stitch

Puff Stitch (2 Variations)

Popcorn Stitch

I hope you found these videos useful.

As with any crochet stitch, you might come across variations on these basic stitches, but I think if you know the basics, it will be so much easier to understand those variations and achieve desirable results.

Crochet and Yarn Collecting Mug

Create beauty one stitch at a time!

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Difference between bobble cluster popcorn and puff crochet stitches

If you find it hard to focus on one crochet project at a time and complete it, then join our Weekly Crochet Focus Facebook Group. We help each other complete those crochet WIPs! Click HERE

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Dreamy Collar Styling

Styling Dreamy Collar

I have recently completed a very detailed crochet CAL pattern for my Dreamy Collar with a vintage feel and a contemporary look.

I thought I’ll show you some ways I am going to style it, so as to give you an idea of how it could be worn.

Did you know that removable collars like this are back in fashion in 2021? Although I don’t think they ever went out of fashion in the crochet world 🙂 🙂 🙂

How to wear your Dreamy Collar.

  1. Play with contrasting colours. If your collar is light, then wear it with a dark blouse or shirt.
Dreamy Collar Styling - on a black blouse tied up on the side.

You can tie the collar up on the side, like in the picture above, or centered in the front, like in the picture below.

Dreamy Collar Styling - on jeans shirt, tied up in the front.

2. Wear your Dreamy Collar on a matching colour background. If your collar is light, like mine, wear it with a cream shirt. The collar will give the whole outfit a very subtle finish and dress up even a very casual top.

3. The fashion now seems to turn around the idea of matching items that at first sight don’t match. I matched my Dreamy Collar with a leather jacket and keep thinking I should buy a leather shirt and wear it with that.

4. Wear it with other accessories such as a faux fur collar or a long necklace.

You can get a very detailed pattern CAL for this Dreamy Collar

Get it on Ravelry

Get it on Etsy

Get it on this Website

Tools and materials used:

Anchor Freccia mercerized thread, 100g/570m approx. (For this Dreamy Collar I used up less than one 50g ball of the thread.)

1mm size hook.
You can use any size of yarn and hook, but keep in mind that the larger the hook and yarn size, the chunkier your collar will be.

Parchment paper and a measuring tape for collar shape cut out.

Soft board or a flat cushion for pinning your collar cut out and individual motifs on and assembling the collar with the lace.

Pins, needle, scissors.

Create beauty one stitch at a time!

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styling dreamy collar

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2 Ways to Make a Magic Circle

magic circle

How to make a Magic Circle and why do we need it?

Beginning crocheters often wonder, how to start crocheting in a circle so as it would come out neat and tidy every single time.

Magic Circle is the answer.

In the videos below I show you two ways how to make a magic circle. Choose the one that you find easier, the finished item will look exactly the same.

Variation 1

I sometimes use this first variation when I work with thicker yarn.

Variation 2

As a rule, I usually go for this second variation, especially when crocheting with fine thread and a small hook. I find that by doing it this way, I use up less yarn.

This technique is used when starting all sorts of projects – hats, round napkins, amigurumi toys or anything else where you need to start a circle with no hole in the middle.

Here’s a Dreamy Collar project where I used magic circle to start most of the circles apart from one type. Click HERE

It doesn’t matter how fine or chunky yarn you are crocheting with, your circle will look neat and tidy every time!

Create beauty one stitch at a time!

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How to Crochet Spiky Snowflakes?

Spiky Snowflakes Pattern

Crochet Spiky snowflakes and decorate your Christmas tree, home or office this Holiday Season!

Spiky snowflakes

These spiky snowflakes also make a beautiful unique gift for anyone who appreciates handmade items.

To get your FREE Spiky Snowflake pattern:

Click here for Spiky Snowflakes pattern

Spiky Snowflakes

I created this spiky snowflakes pattern after looking at lots of real snowflake photography online. So this pattern resembles a spiky snowflake variety in real life.

But to be honest, I found so many real snowflake variations that I realized, you can crochet almost any kind of imaginary snowflake and it will resemble a real-life one.

One common snowflake feature though, is that each snowflake always has 6 ‘branches’. That’s apparently, a scientific fact. But don’t quote me one that! I am only a crocheter and not a snowflake scientist J

If you want to learn to crochet these beautiful Spiky Snowflakes, you can get a FREE PATTERN HERE.

Level: Beginner friendly.

It is a very easy snowflake to crochet and is perfect for beginning crocheters because you need to know only very basic stitches – slip stitch, chain, double crochet (US terminology).

Materials and tools you will need:

You may also like to crochet:

Sunshiny Snowflake, pattern HERE

Ornate Snowflake, pattern HERE.

Finishing Stage for Spiky Snowflakes

If you want to use your Spiky Snowflakes as a hanging décor element, you have to stiffen them after you have completed crocheting them.

For this step I use fabric stiffener called Mod Podge Stiffy, you can get it HERE. It works perfectly for me.

But you can also use homemade stiffeners such as water and glue mixture. Make sure the stiffener is strong enough to hold delicate branches and elements of this Spiky Snowflake.

For laying out and drying my snowflake, I use a soft board (a flat cushion will also work), put a piece of cardboard on top of it with a plastic bag covering.

For ease of access, I also use a small painting brush to apply the fabric stiffener. You can also apply your fabric stiffener with your fingers.

In many cases crocheters first apply the fabric stiffener and then lay out their snowflake to dry. In this case, I reverse the process because the snowflake has lots of small details, and it takes time to lay them out and pin them down precisely, the way I want them to look.

So I first lay out my snowflake and pin each detail in the way I want it to look in the final version. I prefer to lay it out with the wrong side facing up. This particular snowflake design has lots of small spikes, so I need quite a few pins to keep each spike in shape.

Spiky Snowflakes pinned

I then take my paint brush and apply the fabric stiffener quite generously, especially around the base of each branch. Make sure that each corner, each little spike and each branch vein have enough stiffener on them, so as the snowflake would hold its shape perfectly when dried.

Leave it to dry out.

24 hours later (or maybe even less)…

Voila! Your snowflake is ready for beautiful winter décor!

Get you FREE Spiky Snowflakes Pattern HERE

Create beauty one stitch at a time!

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Spiky snowflakes free pattern